Posts Tagged ‘off’

Bagging up

Posted: 05/04/2015 in Modifications archives
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Today I have spent a few hours in the garage looking at where to mount a Kriega US-5 to carry my tool-kit or my medical pack. First I was looking at the rear fender.

Took a while to disassemble the rear of the bike, only to find out there is no space for the bolts. Looking at the above picture, two most left holes, didn’t have enough space below the fender for washer and a nut. So I reluctantly reassembled the back end together. Checking out the bike with a stuffed bag, I have found a nice spot, on the fairing just above the headlight. On a second thought, that fairing might not be strong enough to support the weight of my tool-kit over rough terrain.

So the only spot on the bike left, was the tank. The stuffed bag looked good on the tank, but I don’t have Kriega tank adapter, so I needed to figure something else out. Bottom strap was not a problem, just threaded it under the seat. Top was a bit more challenging. Straps wouldn’t fit around the frame tube, so I threaded them around radiator shrouds. I was quite happy with the position of the bag, but didn’t like all the straps hanging around. After a few more attempts, I was happy with the result.

There is enough room at the handlebars not to interfere with steering, or steering lock.

It sits nicely on the tank. And it won’t get in the way when standing like a standard tank bag.

That is it for now, field test will be done as soon as the weather improves.

Stay safe!


Hey all!

This is a continuation of my fork change project. At the same time that I have changed the forks, I also changed my tyres as the Heidenau K60 rear was gone after a bit over 7000km.

I chose to try out a knobbly set-up for my KLE. After much research on the best possible tyres, I chose to go with Mitas front and rear. But before I go into detail here is the list of tires I was looking at (this is what I have found out on different forums):
>TKC80: To expensive for its wear rate, not good in mud or soft sand
>Karoo 3: To expensive to be a guinea pig, will wait for some reviews
>MT21: Doesn’t like cold wet roads, otherwise the front is the most used in different combos
>Mitas E09: Rear holds up good, front washes out and has little knobs
>Mitas E10: Simmilar to TKC80, cheaper, worse in wet

In the end I chose to go with a Mitas combo, C17 up fornt and E09 on the rear. I took this combo as it was the cheapest knobbly set-up out there, with 103.99€ delivered.

In person the E09 looks a lot bigger/beefier than on the pictures. So I took a few minutes and measured thread depth. First the C17 front:

And the E09 rear:

So the front has 12mm of thread and on the rear there is almost 14mm of thread. Hopefully I will be able to get around 5000km out of the set.
For a better track-ability I took a picture of the ODO-meter when I got them mounted.

Here are a few pictures of them on the bike:

So far I have only done around 20km so can’t really comment on their performance, but will do a update in the spring when I will have at least a 1000km under my belt.

Stay safe everyone!
Update: 3.8.2014

Well I have had those tires on for the last 2681 km (odometer showing 45807 km) and here is what I have found out so far:
-Good grip on road
-Excellent grip off road
-They are a bit louder than K60’s
-The front is scary the first 200 km’s on road until the sides get a bit rounder from cornering.

The front C-17 tyre started looking like a shark fin, but it still has 8 mm of thread on the high and 5 mm on the low point of it. I am going to get my mechanic to turn it around for me.

Rear is flat and it still has 10 mm of thread on the centre knobs.

But I have to tell you that I have used these tyres 70-80% on road and only about 20-30% off road.


For those of you who ride your KLE’s off road, you know that stock handlebars are very uncomfortable while standing. So for that reason I decided to either geat a set of Rox or vario risers or swap handlebars. After some discussion on different forums I decided to go with different handlebars, and it is a bit cheaper than risers.

As you could read in my Holiday shopping post I bought a Renthal bars and grips. And now lets go to the mounting process.

Here is a one over the other photo:

First of all, you need to remove everything from the stock bars. I left the throttle assembly together as I didn’t want it to fall apart and when I removed the bars just slid it down.

Next undo the four bolts at the clamps. But be aware they are tight as hell, and a bit rusted if still factory. It took a 40 cm extension on the hex wrench and a quick surge.

The bike without bars, looks quite sad:

After this it is time tu set up the bars and control for a test fit:

A this point you have to decide If you will grind the tabs on the controls or drill holes. I decided I will grind of the tab on left side controls as it is plastic and it also doesn’t matter if they spin a little. But on the right side at the throttle I decided to drill the hole to prevent twisting of the controls on the bars.

Grind those little studs in the middle:

Now to the part that Renthal does not encourage, drilling the bars. I dont think this will be a problem for my bars as I don’t ride half as aggressively as hard enduro and rally guys. Just make sure you drill at the right spot. I think I used a 5mm drill bit.

Now it’s all just the matter of putting everything back together, clamping on the bars and setting their position to suit you and bolting the controls back on. When the bars are securely back on the bike you can install the new grips. For these Renthal grips I had to cut a hole in the end of the grip so that the bolt for hand guards could go through.

After that you just slide them on. I used a bit of brake cleaner to help sliding them on. After the brake cleaner dries out they won’t spin, or at least mine don’t. A word of warning here, as the Renthal grips are made for MX/Enduro bikes, the throttle side grip is a bit to short and a bit of plastic throttle tube looks out under it, if I would have measured before fitting I could cut away the excess plastic and make it look nicer but it will have to stay like this for this season.

With all that done, here is the finished product, and by the way, stock cabel are long enough for this conversion.

If you have any questions, please ask.

Ride hard and stay safe!