Posts Tagged ‘chain’

Today I have finally fund some time to install a proper chain guide to my 640. Thanks to advrider.com inmates for pointing me in the right direction for the parts I needed for this.

Parts needed:
-54607066100 CHAIN GUIDE REAR ’94
-50207070044 RETAINING PLATE CHAIN GUIDE’94
-1 large M6 washer
-1 M6 nut

Note: On KTM 660 Rally they only use the chain guide without retaining plate

This is what we will be replacing
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With this
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Remove the 2 bolts that hold the old chain guide on the swingarm and be careful, there is a spacer back there.
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That spacer will be replaced by the retaining plate front bolt hole.
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The bad thing about this upgrade is that you have to take the chain apart. So if you are changing your chain, now it is a good time to add a proper chain guide if you wish.
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Once the chain is threaded through the guide, you can start bolting everything back together. Tighten the front bolt just enough so that the whole thing doesn’t fall apart, now align the rear bolt for desired hight.
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Now this is where I have been playing around and swapping parts. Since there is really small gap between the rear bolt and sprocket (5mm or 0,20 inch) I have used a collar nut from the front bolt to save on space, and used a new nut and washer on the front as there is more than enough space. Once both bolts are tightend (don’t forget to use Loctite) the thing is rock solid.
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That is it. You are done. I feel this is a worthy upgrade to anyone that rides more off road.
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Stay safe!

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So the final part of my spring preparation was sprocket and chain swap. From what I have gathered form different forums and people that have been riding the 640’s for year is that the best option for the front sprocket is that OEM KTM ones, and they are also quite cheap. For the rear I have went with JT Sprockets and the OEM KTM didn’t have the one with tooth count that I needed, and the chain I chose was a DID 520VX2, its a 520 spec chain with x-rings.
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So it was time to jack-up the bike and start tearing it apart, yet again.
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With the new sprockets, I have also decided to also change the gearing. I went form 16/42 stock ratio, to a 15/44, recommended by a good friend. After a few rides, I really like this setup and with a throttle cam system, the bike has really, turned in to a crawler at really low revs.
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After removing the old rear sprocket, I have thoroughly cleaned the bolts so that loctite would hold when I put everything back together.
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Shiny new rear sprocket on the hub.
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Before I had reasembeled the rear end, I have takent the adjuster bolts out and dipped them into anti-seize high temp paste so that they wont seize up again.
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Next I installed the front sprocket up, just so that I could measure the chain length needed. I got a 120 link chain so I knew I had to take some links off.
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Shortened up and put together with quick link
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After that it was all just the matter of torquing up the front sprocket and cleaning everything before use.
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All you need to do after a this is go on a short ride to check everything and after that re-adjust the chain tension. This should hopefully last at least 2 seasons of riding.

Stay safe!

Hey!

As mentioned in the previous post, I have bought a Tutoro manual oiler. I went with Tutoro for a few reaseons. First it’s the cheapest on the market, secondly it won the Ride Magazine’s test and thirdly it is the smallest of them all, as we all know KLE doesnt have a lot of space under the plastics.

So lets take a look at the pacage I have ordered. I have ordered a basic kit with twin feed nozzle, and than added two more things, first was the hose clamp set and the second thing was a Helix tube. A picture says 1000 words:

If you want more info on the oiler, click HERE!

Setting this kit to the bike is very easy, find the place for the oiler, secure it with cabel ties, route the hose, bleed the system, set the flow. Almost like that, but as stated in the product it’s MANUAL. That means you have to turn it on when you go riding and off when you get home, or else you will find a small puddle of oil next to the bike. As I usualy forget moer important things in life than closing an oiler I have added a valve in between. I have bought a 2/2 direct acting valve (in simple terms, its a elektro magnetic valve that opens when current flows through it and closes when ther is no current). Here is a picture of the valve:

So where to tap in the bikes electrical system to get the nessesary power for the valve? Some friends suggested to use the rear light wires, so everytime you turn the key it turns on the oiler. But that is not a good idea if you are doing maintenance and the oil dripps to the garage floor. So I took a look at the service manuals wireing diagrams and have found a better solution. I have wired it to the license plate light. That light comes on when the engin is started, so no dripping of oil when only key in ignition is only turned to on position. Under the seat look for a connector that has 6 wires comming out of it, its near the end of the seat space, somwhere aber reg/rec. I have tapped in black/yelow and red/blue wires.

Well KLE doesn’t have a lot of space for these kind of things to be fitted. I have been at it for around 3-4 hours to figure out good way to mount everything up and this is what i have done:

Position of the oiler:

Valve:

Hose routing:

Helix and nozzle:

Complete view:

I have ordered a twin feed nozzle in hopes that there is enough room to fit it. But unfortunately there isn’t. I had to transform twin feed nozzle to single feed nozzle. I have cut away one nozzle and glued in a toothpick so oil won’t leak out.

I have allready filled the system up with oil and did a short ride around town, as the rain prevented any longer trips. I have filled it with Husqvarna mineral chainsaw oil with 220 viscosity. We will see how will it work. I will report back any changes.

See ya!