I have recently noticed that a lot of people on different forums were asking about which handguards fit KLE500 and I decidet to make a list of some guards that fit, fit with mods and don’t fit, also I will show how I fitted guards on my KLE. So here goes.

Handguards that fit/fit with mods:
Acerbis Brush Guards, all plastic guard with optional high wind deflectors, fits without any modifications and so do all similar designed guards. For example Madhead
Zeta Racing Handguards, aluminium backbone handguard that fits without any known problems Click
Barkbusters, need to tap the thread Fittting instructions
Polisport Sharp Handguards DO NOT fit KLE500, they are 1cm to short. Here you can see how it looks.

There has also been some suggestions on how to modify handelbars to fit aftermarket guards on.
1. Use a dremel to remove the plug that is welded inside the handelbars so you are able to use the mounting kit that comes with handguards.
2. If you have a machine shop near you or do you have the tools to make spacers and so one, here is a tip form Mendelmax form horizons unlimited forum:

Find some machine shop, that will make you a spacer 10-12 mm thick (I prefer 12 to have some tolerance) with a 21,7mm external diameter and 5mm hole in it, to put the bolt through. You can also cut your original handlebar weight, but I wouldn’t do it in case if you’d like to get back to stock.

You can then easily fit any kind of handlebar. I went that route, still don’t know how will M5 screw withstand the motorcycle fall (haven’t installed it yet, will do it this weekend), but from my calculations, class 10.9 M5 screw should be able to tolerate static tension of 1900kg. Of course this is theoretical value, and will be much lower since the force won’t act along the screw but rather at 90* to it, yet still I thik that these 200kg that this bike can put on it is not enough to break it.

Besides it’s better to let the screw break than to damage the handbars i suppose. It still will absorb a huge amount of impact energy.

Here are the technical drawings of spacer and special bolt that I made for myself. The bolt is a typical M8 DIN 7991 bolt, turned from certain pint into M5 (hope it’s proper english term for it, I mean a kind of rotational grinding). This kind of bolts is attached to most handguards, but usually in 8.8 or lower strenght class. I would recommend buying 10.9 since you will weaken it A LOT by making it M5.
handguard fittment

3. Get an aftermarket handelbars like Renthal, Trailtech,… quite some people had gone down this road.

And now to show you how I fitted handguards to my KLE. The handguards I chose to put on were Madhead guards with turn signals that I had from my previous bike. I had also bought Acerbis high wind deflectors. On the deflectors I had to cut a tab off to fit them to Madhead handguards. Otherwise they were a straight bolt on to the bike. But after removing original bar-end weights I got some bad vibes on the handelbars. So I have ordered a set of aluminium bar end weights in bike color. To fit those on the handelbars with handguards I had to grind the end holes of the guards a few millimeter bigger. All in all the fitting took about 30min from start to end. Here is the list of things that I had used:

1. Madhead handguards with turn signals
2. Acerbis high wind deflectors for Brush guards
3. Acerbis mounting kit for steel handelbars (handguards come with plastic mounts but i wanted metal ones)
4. Bar-end weights in bike color

And here a a few pictures of the guards mounted.

Left guard

Clutch cabel goes above over the guard, all the rest goes under. Notice the silver clamp that holds the guart to the bars. That is from acerbis mounting kit, original is black and plastic and brakes easely.

Brake line has to go over the guard too

Brake fluid reservoir is also covered

If you are looking for a cheap handguard set and aluminium backbone is not top priority thease will work fine for you. They are also very tough, I had dropped the bike once and the only thing that broke off was won of the tabs that hold the turn signal in the guard. See picture below:

And this is how they look on the bike:

Over all these guards do their job very well, protection from wind and outer elements is good, turn signals work without problems, so if you don’t want to spend a fortune on hand protection this is a good way to go.


  1. steve says:

    hi what acerbis brush guards. do you mean?as they are rally 2/ 3/ and pro ones to. do the acerbis brush guards fit standard kle 500 b6f 07 year bars. as i have been told acerbis brush guards are not universal fittings> only rally 2/3 and pro ones are? and do they fit without any mods any advice would be grateful thanks. also champion hand guards will fit to without any mods not sure this is true?

    • steve says:

      just noticed my bar end inserts are welded in for the bar end weights that fit in as standard. so how could o fit aftermarket handguards without taking the other inserts out that are welded in. or could i just use the bolt that holds the bar end weights in place to hold the new hand guards in place instead of taking out the old ones out that will be a issue as they are welded, any ideas thanks

      • Ghosty_SLO says:


        I was referring to Acerbis Rally Brush handguards, my handguards are a copy of these guards with turn signals. These are all plastic handguards and are a universal fit, but you need to buy mounting kit separately.

        As for mounting them, I left the inserts in and just used an appropriate bolt (you could use original but I wanted a hex head). All I need to do also was make a simple spacer at the throttle side so that the guard didn’t interfere with throttle grips (aftermarket ones).

  2. steve says:

    hey. ok i will go for using your method leaving the stock inserts in and using spacer for throttle. and hex head bolts. . but they does not seem to be a lot of thread on the bolt whats the mm for them to go into the stock bar ends it stop after about 12mm is that enough to support the bar end fittings do you think? i will go for using champion hand guards as they are universal. and all measure up to fit kle i hope. thanks for info…

    • Ghosty_SLO says:


      In my opinion 12mm is enough to keep the guards in place, and if you fall over it is still better to snap the bolt than bend the bars. Tommorow I can go in the garage and check how far in my bolts go if you like? I am just in the proces of changing out the handlebars and I have already removed everything from the stock bars.

      • steve says:

        ok that would be great thanks. is it a standard 8mm diameter on the stock handlebar weights bolt for the kle how did you remove the old inserts looks like mine got a lot of weld to get out. if want to start from new and fit the ones that come with the champion hand guards.. can you have a look at the champion guards just google it or images and see what you think to them it shows all the fittings if you dont mind.thanks

      • Ghosty_SLO says:

        I havent removed the old inserts, I left them welded in and used a bolt with M5 thread that went in. I have checked today with my bars and the bolt also goes in only about 15mm roughly. I had them on like this for 2-3 years with a couple of falls and they never moved or anything.

        Those champion guards do look like a good option. If I were you, I would just use the same bolt for fitting the guards that the stock bar wights use. It’s the easiest way.

      • steve says:

        thanks i will try it that way. do you get bar vibration not using the stock handle bat weights and just the guards or do you think i could fit the bar end weights on the end of the guards as well. also i want to tighten up the rear shock to setting 3 is it best to do it on the centre stand or of it. thanks again for all your info…also i am going to fit a end can gpr-trio oval. and conti trail attack enduro tyres.. and a DNA air filter as i find the bike does not pull that well below 3000rpm from stand still. as these are the best mods to do for the kle to improve it…. i have been told.. also i do find the kle engine very clunky but i have only done 1950 miles on her it should settle down with more miles i think…

      • Ghosty_SLO says:

        I have no problems runing without bar end weights as my top speed on road rearly goes above 110km/h.

        I don’t have a center stand so i tighten up the shock on a side stand without any problems.


  3. steve says:

    hi can you tighten up the rear shock absorber without having to use the special tool needed for rear shocks. not sure if it will be to tight to do it buy hand? thanks again for all your info…

    • Ghosty_SLO says:


      You cannot tighten the stock shock by hand, it is impossible. You could use a 10mm aluminium rod and a hammer. Do not use steel or iron rod because you will damage the shock.

  4. steve says:

    hi just thought i would let you know the champion hand guards turned out to be ok to fit but the levers were catching on the guards. so i had to do away with the inserts and used the stock bolts but had to make spacers out of the champion guard insert ends buy cutting them down to size and putting rubber tube and hose pipe tube to fill up the gaps. was all a pain but they do look good and was worth the effort just hope the bolt holds with the lockite thread glue. nexst to do is the rear shock tried three c spanners and cannot seem to find the right one or the size i need. i think i will have to go down the hammer and bar root but when i tried it it did not move just dont know how hard to hit it without causing damage or what side to do it from as the shock covers most of the notches that i can get to without taking all the back end off. hve you done yours this way? any ideas would be good. thanks

    • Ghosty_SLO says:

      Glad to hear you fixed the handguards, if you have any photos and want them published here on the blog, fell free to send them to my mail. As for the shock I tightened it from the right side (where the lock is on the plastic). If you use aluminium bar you shouldn’t damage the shock as the aluminium will give before the steel tabs brake. You do have to hit it quite hard, it wont go over to a higher notch with only one hit. Get a fried to hold the bike so you don’t knock it over.

      I dont know how the exhaust efected the preformance as it was on befor I got the bike.

      • steve says:

        hi thanks on shock advice and i will post you photos of the bike and all new mods. when i get the bike ready for summer. just installed DNA air filter but not sure i have put it in the right way around. it does not have the guide slot notch on the sides like the stock one? just to large blocks at the front and two small blocks at the rear. i see nothing that can hold it in place but the foam on the edges. so i took a chance and put the large blocks to the front near the snorkle and just put it in the centre like stock filter. hope i got it right. thanks for any advice again

  5. steve says:

    hi forgot to ask noticed you have aftermarket can exhaust on the bike. what is it and any improvement in performance. i think they are all exspensive best one i can find for price is a gpr-tri oval inox for around £200 pound. just dont think it sound any different than stock one unless i take baffles out but i dont want to do that not good for the engine i here. thanks

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